Corvette Steering Service Inc
1963-82 Corvettes
PREPARATION


Picture 1 shows all the parts included in the kit. Before starting make sure everything is accounted for. The following components must be removed from the car: steering column, stock steering box (including the rag joint and mounting bolts), pitman arm, power steering valve, power steering cylinder & bracket and all power steering hoses.
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The power steering valve must be disassembled as shown (Picture 2). Remove the strap from around the valve, then the rubber boot. Remove the end cap from the end of the valve, and then remove the adjusting nut (3/8). Remove 2) larger bolts (9/16) that hold the two halves of the valve together, and separate the valve. Unscrew the plug to remove the adjusting rod, and you will be left with this (Picture 3).
With the adjusting rod removed, screw the plug back into the valve and tighten until you are just able to move the stud around with your thumb. Insert the supplied round slug on top of the plug you just screwed in. The slug should protrude slightly from the valve body. Attach the supplied end plate with the provided screws. Do not over tighten the plate; remember that you must be able to rotate the valve stud with moderate effort. Install the provided boot & strap, or use your original.
This is what the completed valve should look like (Picture 4). Once the valve is re-assembled it can be screwed back onto the relay rod until it is tight and the stud points straight up. Do not insert the bolt yet so the valve can be moved you attach the Pitman arm.
** An alternative to this step would be to purchase a Drag link for a manual steering Corvette **
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The union on the power steering pump must be replaced in order for the new hose to be attached to the pump (picture 5). The new union is attached to one end of the shorter new PS hose (picture 6). Tag this end of the hose before removing the union; this will make installation easier later.
Use a 1” socket to remove the stock union. Do this carefully, the union will pop out when it is loose and there will probably be some power steering fluid ejected as well. Install the new union using the 1” socket and tighten as much as possible to prevent leaks.
RELOCATE BRAKE LINES
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Before the new steering box can be permanently installed, the two brake lines that run along the steering box must be moved (picture 7). Remove the brake line clamp (1/2” socket) that is located in front of the steering box (there is another clamp about 11” down towards the firewall from the top clamp if more line movement is needed).
Temporarily install the new steering box so you can see how much the hoses need to be moved. Remove the steering box and carefully move the lines as needed (picture 8).
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Make sure the metal plate that came strapped to the steering box is in place. Install the new steering box using the provided bolts (the stock bolts are too short), and tighten them enough to securely hold the box in place. Place the steering joint on the steering box to see how the box lines up with the steering shaft hole in the firewall. Not using the 1/4 spacer plate will give more exhaust clearance. You then will have to alter fire wall hole so steering column will line up with steering box input shaft..
The included black rectangular spacer may be needed on the single hole side of the box to properly align the box with the hole (picture 9). If need be, slide the steering column through the firewall hole to check alignment. If everything looks good tighten up the steering box nuts (30 LB. FT.)
** AFTER INSTALLING THE BOX INTO THE CAR MAKE SURE THE FLATS OF THE STEERING BOX INPUT SHAFT ARE FACING HORIZONTAL, AND THE INDENTED (NOTCH) SIDE IS FACING THE ENGINE.. THIS INDICATES THE EXACT HIGH POINT (CENTER) OF STEERING MESH PATTERN.
PREPARING THE COLUMN
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The steering column end shaft must be shortened for a proper fit. To find out how much you will need a tape measure. Slide the tape through the firewall hole until you hit the outer edge of the steering joint. Measure the distance from that edge to the center of the hole for one of the bolts that holds the steering column flange to body (picture 10). Add about 3/4” to that measurement (it is better to have the shaft a little longer than shorter), and you have the length the steering column shaft needs to be.
Remove the steering joint from the steering box and place it on the splined end of the steering shaft. The single set screw must line up with the flat part on the shaft spline (picture 11). Tighten up the set screw and nut as tight as you can. Measure from the center of one of the flange holes on the steering column to the outer edge of the steering joint picture 12).
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Subtract the measurement you took earlier from this figure and you will know how much your shaft needs to be shortened. For example, if you first measurement was 20”, and the second was 24”, then your shaft must be shortened 4”. Measure up the shaft from the steering column end cap and make a line at that measurement (4” in the example). Use a hammer to lightly tap the very top of the steering joint until the shaft is retracted to the line you just drew. Place your steering column into the car and slide the steering joint end onto the steering box shaft so that the side set screw lines up with the indent on the box shaft. Tighten this set screw and nut.
Your steering wheel mounting holes should be off towards the inside of the car, line them up by pressing in on the steering wheel till the holes line up. Reinstall the 2) bolts and tighten (150 IN. LBS.).
Re-attach any steering column connections and fasten any panels that were removed.
REMEMBER THE INPUT SHAFT OF STEERING BOX FLATS ARE HORIZONTAL WHEN YOUR STEERING WHEEL IS STRAIGHT AHEAD..
INSTALLING THE HOSES
** BE CAREFUL TO KEEP HOSES AWAY FROM MOVING, SHARP OR HOT ENGINE PARTS **
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The hose with the single fitting is the outlet hose, and the hose with 2 fittings is the inlet hose. Attach the supplied o-rings to all fittings and lightly lubricate with power steering fluid.
The inlet hose is the outer hose (farthest from the engine), and should be installed first. Install the inlet hose to steering box fitting and tighten with a 18mm wrench. This is the fitting that IS NOT marked with tape. Attach the fitting marked with tape to the PS pump union and tighten with a 16mm wrench.
Attach the single fitting on the outlet hose to the steering box and tighten with a 18mm wrench. The other end of the hose slides up onto the outlet spout and it secured with the provided hose clamp.
PITMAN ARM INSTALL
Check the alignment of the steering box shaft before installing the Pitman arm. The steering joint set screw on the flat of the steering shaft spline must point straight up, and the side set screw must point towards the engine (picture 14), even if this position causes the steering wheel to be cocked to one side. With the car wheels pointed straight ahead hold the Pitman arm up to the splined end of the steering box and the stud on the PS valve to see how things line up. Turn the PS valve out of the way and having lined up the splines on both parts use a hammer to tap the Pitman arm onto the steering box shaft. Attach the supplied lock washer and nut onto the shaft. Before you torque the nut run the steering box full right & left to make sure the pitman arm clears the tie rod.. Then tighten (185 LB. FT.) ( picture 15)
Turn the PS valve to its upright position while sliding the stud into the Pitman shaft. Install the bolt and tighten (25 LB. FT.). Install the castle nut and secure with the cotter pin.
ADDING POWER STEERING FLUID
The following is the procedure from the GM service manual for refilling the power steering system with fluid:
· Add PS fluid until filled up to the cold line on the dipstick and let sit for 2 minutes.
· Run engine for 2 seconds. Check fluid level and repeat this procedure until the fluid stays at the cold line.
· Raise the front of the car until the wheels are off the ground.
· Run the engine speed up to 1500 RPM for several seconds. Turn the wheels side to side, lightly contacting the wheel stops.
· Stop the car and add fluid if necessary.
· Lower the car and start. Turn the wheels side to side. Turn off car and check fluid levels.
· If fluid is foamy let the car sit for a few minutes, and repeat the above procedure until the fluid is no longer foamy and is at the proper level.
FINISHING UP
After fluid is topped off check all seals for leaks and tighten if necessary. Also take a moment to make sure everything is fastened and tightened properly. Now take your Vette for a road test.
** It is highly recommended that you have the front alignment checked ASAP. You will most likely find that your toe setting is out of line. Your steering wheel should be held straight ahead and then adjust your tie rods so the wheels are straight ahead **
YOU ARE NOW OFFICIALLY FINISHED!!
Now get out there and enjoy that increased road feel. But before you do please take a moment and contact Tom by phone or email to let him know what you think of the kit.
Instructions: by John Lewczyk (JlinNY).